Mini-skirts of the future: How 2nd wave feminism and fashion influenced ‘Star Trek’

The sci-fi series offers an intriguing glimpse into the fashion discourse of the swinging 60s

The original Star Trek series inspired a franchise that defined the science fiction genre and became a cultural touchstone. To modern viewers, though, the series will immediately seem outdated for its choice of fashion and interior design.

The swinging 60s are alive and well in the future of Star Trek, full of vibrant colours, mod fashions, and unique fabric choices. But what modern viewers may miss is the subtle feminist commentary in its costume design.

The women of the 23rd century, living 300 years in the future, must surely have a range of comfortable and practical choices of clothing. So why do the capable crew members on board – such as communications officer Nyota Uhura – wear miniskirts?

It’s a striking choice bound to raise eyebrows, particularly because ‘The Cage’ - the initial unaired pilot made for the show – largely showed the female crew in long sleeves and trousers.

But, just as the USS Enterprise stepped into the final frontier, exploring uncharted worlds and boldly going where no man had gone before, the women of Starfleet were also unearthing a new undiscovered country through some of the shortest skirts seen on the TV screen.

The driving force was, of course, the 1960s movement for the social and sexual liberation of women. It was a time when women were pouring into the workforce, more active and visible in the economy than before. The commercial availability of the birth control pill also gave women more control over their sexual and reproductive rights. This paradigm shift was also apparent in the fashion of the era. Gone were long skirts, stockings, girdles and petticoats. Instead, the vanguard shifted to the miniskirts and go-go boots off the racks of British designer Mary Quant. The miniskirt became a symbol of the movement, even worn by feminist frontrunners like Germaine Greer and Gloria Steinem.

The miniskirt became so closely associated with the movement that when fashion brand Dior didn't include them in its 1966 show, a group called the 'British Society for the Protection of Mini Skirts' protested outside.

As Star Trek grew into a science fiction institution and trends and tastes changed, the miniskirt fell out of favour. Nichelle Nichols, the actress who played Uhura on the show, was regularly asked questions about the particular choices taken by the production.

"In later years, especially as the women’s movement took hold in the seventies, people began to ask me about my costume,” she said. “Some thought it 'demeaning' for a woman in the command crew to be dressed so sexily. It always surprised me because I never saw it that way. After all, the show was created in the age of the miniskirt, and the crew women’s uniforms were very comfortable.”

“Contrary to what many may think today, no one really saw it as demeaning back then. In fact, the miniskirt was a symbol of sexual liberation. More to the point, though, in the 23rd century, you are respected for your abilities regardless of what you do or do not wear."

With today’s modern lens, the connection to that larger movement is less obvious. But, for its time, the show was quite contemporary and even progressive in its values.

The main cast was composed of a diverse crew of different backgrounds, nationalities, and ethnicities. Uhura, James Doohan’s Scotty, George Takei’s Hikaru Sulu, and Walter Koenig’s officer Pavel Chekov were all important recurring characters. The show took the daring step of depicting a future where people of colour took central roles, where Americans served alongside Russians, and men and women worked together at a time when many women would not consider a career. It’s a look back at a fascinating time, showing us the different ways women can choose to express themselves in different eras. And, even if the miniskirts of the future look outdated today, let’s remember that old fashions have a way of coming back.

This article is part of Stripe,bdnews24.com's special publication focusing on culture and society from a youth perspective.