French chef Alain Ducasse, at his pop-up restaurant ADMO in Paris on Nov 9, 2021. Two decades ago, Spain was the new France, leading gastronomic innovation and now two iconic chefs have joined forces in Paris. (Dmitry Kostyukov/The New York Times)

A tale of culinary reconciliation, beside the Eiffel Tower

Merging kitchen staff with different protocols and techniques has not always been easy, especially given the complex mix of ingredients