The Indian Coffee House in Kolkata, India, on March 24, 2021. The cafe has a storied history as a place for intellectuals to gather, and debate. (Saumya Khandelwal/The New York Times)

At 2 Kolkata cafes, ‘adda’ is what’s really on the menu

At one of the cafes, to ask for chai is to invite a gaze of withering contempt from the turbaned waiter, as if blasphemy has been committed