Trials and triumphs: A food lover’s expedition into London’s Borough Market

The historic location offers a plethora of options for food explorers. So much so that can be a bit overwhelming

For indecisive eaters like me, food markets are both a blessing and a curse.
 
In those moments I’m craving both chow mein and pizza at the same time, there are absolutely no substitutes. But, more often than not, the vast array of options makes it difficult to decide on exactly what you want to eat.
 
So it’s no surprise that I had a great, but also hectic, day during a visit to the oldest food market in London – the historic Borough Market.
 
The minute you step off the Tube at London Bridge station, you are swarmed by locals and tourists, all on the hunt for their own culinary discoveries. As someone who lived practically next door during a summer stint at King's College London, I felt like a seasoned explorer of the market’s many twists and turns.
 
Despite my familiarity with the lay of the land, I started cautiously, prowling the array of fresh produce and food vendors. After all, with the eye-watering currency exchange rates, I wanted every pence to count.  

What makes Borough Market truly special is the endless samples. Many vendors – whether they’re cheesemongers, truffle hunters, bakers or vintners – try to lure in passersby with a taste of their wares.
 
My favourites are the truffle shops which offer small bowls of aromatic truffle oil alongside freshly baked chunks of bread. The instant a bit of bread dipped into the luxurious liquid gold touches the tongue, it’s a moment of pure bliss. Alas, it’s also a fleeting one, considering the outrageous prices!
 
But there are ways to extend that euphoric feeling, maybe even for hours if you manage to reach the front of the line for Kappacasein Dairy’s delightful raclette. Raclette is a type of Swiss cheese, but it also refers to the dish made by melting this cheese over a bed of boiled baby potatoes.
 
Kappacasein’s version uses London Raclette and sometimes Ogleshield cheese. The dish is served with a side of cornichons and pickled onions, but what truly impressed me was the sprinkle of coarse salt over the cheese. A very small detail, but it was precisely this touch of crunchy saltiness that tied all the flavours together. Their cheddar cheese toasties are equally delicious but do require a word of warning. They are incredibly heavy and are best shared unless you want to spend the rest of the day recovering from dairy overload.
 
Another Borough Market favourite is Brindisa, perhaps as famous as the rest of the market by itself, if not more so. They specialise in cured meats and cheeses and are reputed to make London’s finest chorizo sandwiches. Maybe I got a subpar batch because I wasn’t particularly impressed. Or maybe my palate isn’t sophisticated enough to appreciate the subtleties. All I know is I would rather throw together my own creation at home than chew joylessly through the cold, tough sandwich I received.

Equally disappointing were Bread Ahead bakery’s doughnuts, acclaimed as London’s best for nearly a decade. The doughnuts were as fresh as can be, given that their baking school is located right behind the store. They even allow customers to make their own doughnuts for a higher price. But, in my opinion, they were cold, lacking in filling, and excessively bready. I’ve had better cream-filled doughnuts from discount supermarkets like Lidl and at a fraction of the steep price!
 
Thankfully, my final stop after a disappointing foray proved to be my saviour – the always-reliable Padella. The pasta shop is both inside and outside Borough Market, with one entrance facing the bustling Southwark High Street, and the other leading directly into one of Borough Market’s numerous back alleys. My usual order is their Pici Cacio Pepe - hand-rolled pici pasta served in a simple cheese and black pepper sauce. Watching the chefs work their magic right in front of you is a treat in itself. But it’s nothing compared to the taste. It isn’t a revolutionary dish. It doesn’t use foams or gels or any other overblown act of theatre to liven up the dining experience. It just tastes very, very good.
 
Exploring Borough Market is a culinary adventure. It has its triumphs and it has its trials. But, ultimately, for any lover of food, it’s a rewarding experience. No matter what you uncover, a trip there is unforgettable. Embrace the lively atmosphere, cherish every moment, and let your taste buds indulge in the cornucopia of taste and flavour on offer.

This article is part of Stripe, bdnews24.com's special publication focusing on culture and society from a youth perspective.