Sightseers at the Colosseum in Rome, May 6, 2022. With masking and vaccination requirements largely dropped in Italy and summer approaching, crowds have begun to return to Rome’s Centro Storico — the area most dependent on tourism and the hardest hit by the coronavirus pandemic. Francesco Lastrucci/The New York Times

In Rome, new food and old sites beckon

The Eternal City continues to live up to its name, thanks to some long-awaited reopenings and a crop of new restaurants and cultural spots all over town